Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

Outside legendary Warmshowers host Ken Francis’ house

When people learn about my travels they sometimes say “I could never afford to do that!” That might be true if you visit pricey tourist attractions and stay in 5-star hotels, but that’s not me. Here are ways to make travel affordable, especially if you travel solo and want to focus on community connections.

These ideas are mostly for acquiring free or cheap lodging and meeting local community members simultaneously. Some require a subscription, but each is cheaper than even one night at a hotel. You can search most of these websites without a subscription, so I only pay when I’m actually going to use a service. Click the names below to access each website.

Volunteering for Lodging

If you want to give back to a community you’re traveling through, consider doing volunteer work in exchange for housing. I’ve personally done almost all of these, and/or have friends who have used them.

Services that require a subscription:

Volunteering on Quarantine Island/Kamau Taurua, NZ
  • WWOOF: World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms. Despite the name, these environmental opportunities are not always on farms. I did one on small island in New Zealand. I worked 3-4 hours, 5 days/week doing weeding, gardening, counting birds, helping with educational programming, scrubbing the jetty, painting, and doing house chores. One day my job was literally to hang out with the island keeper’s two kids. I had two days off per week, access to a kayak, bike, car, and public transit, and got lodging and food. It was one of my all-time favorite life experiences. Read about it here.
  • Workaway: Similar to WWOOF, but usually in peoples’ homes helping with a wide range of tasks. A few hours per day in exchange for lodging and sometimes food.
  • HelpX: Short for “Help Exchange.” Same concept as Workaway.
  • House-sitting: Sites like Trusted Housesitters are cool if you like pets. You stay in someone’s house in exchange for watching pets and sometimes watering plants. There are many sites to find house-sitting jobs besides just one; here is a list of the “best” sites in 2022.

No subscription:

All Hands and Hearts: Abaco, Bahamas
  • English immersion: If you are a native English speaker, you can acquire free room and board for talking! Programs like VaughanTown (in Spain), Diverbo/Pueblo Ingles (Spain & Germany), EnglischHausen (Germany), Speak Anglos (Italy), ENGLISHstay (Czech Republic), JustSpeak (Poland), and Angloville (across Europe) offer chances to live in fancy places (hotels, sometimes castles) in exchange for speaking English to program participants. You’ll have a few hours off each day and might go on group outings.
  • All Hands and Hearts: Disaster response work. Volunteers live communally in an area affected by a natural disaster (hurricane, tornado, wildfire, flood, etc.). This is a very involved commitment; volunteers work five or six days a week on projects with one or two days off per week. Typical projects could be mucking/gutting houses, mold removal, rebuilding houses or schools, painting, etc. I did a hurricane relief project in the Bahamas; read about it here. In addition to lodging, AHAH has on-site meals for volunteers on work days, and sometimes they cover flight costs to and from a project area.
  • NECHAMA: Similar to AHAH. Their motto is “Jewish response to disaster” because their mission is “rooted in the Jewish value of Tikkun Olam, repairing the world,” providing “comfort and hope to communities by engaging volunteers in disaster recovery work.” You don’t need to be Jewish to volunteer. “NECHAMA welcomes anyone with a passion to help others regardless of religious faith or background. No previous disaster response experience is necessary- our skilled team leaders will teach you everything you need to know to make a difference.” I am not Jewish and enjoyed my time with this organization as a day volunteer. I’d love to work with them again as a residential volunteer.
The Clearwater, docked at Cold Spring, NY
  • Ship work: Some ships require prior sailing knowledge/experience, but there are many that teach you en route. With no sailing experience, I spent a week on the Sloop Clearwater in NY, sailing up and down the Hudson River teaching kids about the environment. I have a friend who traveled by ship volunteering for two years nonstop. She started with no sailing knowledge and volunteered as a cook, then acquired crew positions as she learned more.
  • Other environmental projects: Check out the Department of Conservation or similar for whatever country you’re going to. I found projects in New Zealand and the US this way. Some require ongoing commitment, like trail maintenance crews in the US, but others require just short-term commitment.

Lodging without volunteering:

My first Host A Sister host, Gabrielle

There are many Facebook groups for female-identifying travelers to find places to stay. You can host, search for travel buddies, find a house swap, etc. Here are a few:

Couchsurfing Vietnam with Quynh and Nhi
  • Couchsurfing: I’ve been a Couchsurfing traveler and host since 2012. You make a profile, then find hosts, travel buddies, etc. Some women have had bad experiences with Couchsurfing, but there are ways to avoid sketchy situations. Stay away from anyone with “neutral” or “negative” reviews, males who only have reviews from females, hosts without reviews, guys who have photos with their shirts off, anyone who wants you to contact them off Couchsurfing, or if they mention that you need to share a room and/or bed. If they have good reviews from all genders, photos of themselves traveling, interests related to traveling, a description of their house, etc., they are usually great; I’ve made good friends through CS. For popular destinations send many requests and personalize each one. As a host in NYC I delete requests that are copy/pasted; I get too many to spend time looking at those when others send personalized messages. Note: Couchsurfing now charges a subscription fee. I’ve found BeWelcome to be a good free alternative, though it doesn’t have the same amount of users yet.
  • House swap: If you have a cool house or apartment, and/or live in an appealing area, you can swap houses with someone else. The Host A Sister FB group mentioned above has an active house swap community. Here is a list of home swap websites.
  • BeWelcome: An alternative to Couchsurfing, currently only in Europe. I used this for the first time in March 2023 in Europe and it was great! I had an amazing host and connected with a few people who couldn’t host me but had lots of travel tips. It’s not quite at the level of Couchsurfing yet in terms of finding hosts, but it’s getting there. It’s a decent option without a paywall.
  • WorldPackers: Another Couchsurfing alternative. I have not used this yet, but one of my students recommended it.
  • Trustroots: Another Couchsurfing alternative I haven’t yet used. Totally free, no subscription cost!

Camping:

“Bike Hostel Area,” Riverhead, NY
  • Welcome To My Garden: A not-for-profit initiative born during the 2020 lockdown in Belgium. Hosts offer hikers and cyclists a chance to camp in their backyards. It’s most active in Europe, but the map is expanding.
  • 1Nite Tent: Similar to Welcome To My Garden but German (with spots throughout Europe). From their website: “In Germany it is forbidden to raise your tent outside of campsites. You might be fined by up to 500€. Sleeping outside without a tent is a legal uncertainty. In Scandinavia the „Everyman’s right“ is applied: For one night you are allowed to raise your tent everywhere. We would like to establish this kind of travelling in Germany as well.”
  • Hiker/biker campsites: If you like camping, the US is chock-full of places to camp for $0-$10 if you enter by foot or bike. You can read about the free bike hostel campsites I stayed at on Long Island here. There are TONS of hike/bike sites along the Pacific Coast Highway, and probably more places I haven’t explored elsewhere. 🙂
  • Wild camping: There are many places where you can camp legally. Make sure to check what’s legal in whatever area you visit, or just choose a stealthy spot. 😉

Monasteries:

Many monasteries – primarily in historically Catholic countries like Italy – offer free or cheap housing for guests. Some examples:

  • Good Night and God Bless: From their website: “Step off the beaten tourist path and step into clean, cheap, safe and well-located accommodation in the world’s convents, monasteries, religious guesthouses and hotels. Good Night and God Bless is an essential online booking tool for today’s tourists and pilgrims, singles and groups, ramblers and explorers and for all travelers searching for a unique experience.
  • Monasteries.com: Essentially a search engine for finding monasteries by destination.
  • Monasterystays.com: Another search engine
  • The Global Gadabout has a good blog entry about staying in monasteries in general.

More Alternative Housing:

Here are some options that you pay for, but often are cheaper than hotels:

A blog reader told me that a few of her friends stayed in US national parks for free by searching for opportunities on CoolWorks.com. I haven’t used this myself and it’s unclear if her friends volunteered in exchange for housing. If anyone gives it a try, let me know how it goes!


Most if not all of these opportunities are about way more than acquiring free housing. These opportunities are designed for travelers to connect to local communities, not just take selfies and move along. I’ve enjoyed these programs and have met amazing people, some of whom I now consider friends.

One of my favorite Warmshowers experiences, at Hiromi & Kirby’s place in El Segundo, CA

What if I’m an introvert?
Never fear! As a self-identified introvert myself, I can say with confidence that you’ll be okay! There is an unwritten script amongst travelers: Hosts ask about your adventures, you ask about theirs, they show you the bathroom, the wifi, house rules, go over the food arrangement, offer travel advice, etc. It’s a different kind of small talk than you have to prepare yourself for at parties; you already have something in common to connect with. Much easier 🙂

But is it safe?
I typically feel *safer* using these services than I do staying alone in a hotel if no one knows where I am. Hosts have profiles on almost all of these platforms and can’t erase reviews from guests; if a host has even one negative or neutral review, I don’t stay at their place. It’s a relief to know someone is waiting for me to arrive, and sometimes they meet me somewhere or pick me up if I’m lost or it’s getting dark. It’s cool to meet community members and explore places from local perspectives, and for me, that’s a large part of what travel is about.

So…that’s my list. If you know of other opportunities I should add or if you’d like to share your own experiences using these services, leave a comment. Thanks for reading, and happy travels!

Interested in following Carolyn’s adventures? Follow her on Instagram @carolynventures

If you want to know about my trip but aren’t keen on reading the week-by-week entries with specific details, this is the post for you. Here is the sparknotes version, including stats and questions people ask.

Daily Miles

I started my West Coast adventure by flying to Seattle, visiting my friends Kiley and Tyler, then taking a bus, train, and another bus to Portland, Klamath Falls (stayed overnight with Warmshowers hosts Lorena & Dick), and finally Crescent City and the California coast. I didn’t use a bike computer or GPS, so bike mileage was estimated with Google Maps. I added daily destinations to a Google map (below). The map makes it seem like I planned a lot, but in reality I checked the Warmshowers map, contacted hosts 0-4 days in advance, and biked to whichever host or campground I wanted to stay at.

Key:
WS = Warmshowers; CS = Couchsurfing; HB = Hiker/Biker campsite; HAS = Host A Sister

For those who’d like to track specific dates, Day 0 was March 5, 2022.

Entering Redwood National and State Parks

  • Day 0: Arrival in Crescent City
    • Lodging: CS/WS – Rachel & Dave
  • Day 1: Crescent City-Trinidad: 61 miles
    • WS – Carol
  • Day 2: Trinidad-Loleta: 44 miles
    • WS – Angela & Jamie (camping in their garden)
  • Day 3: Loleta-Weott: 38 miles
    • HB – Burlington Campground (Humboldt Redwoods State Park), $5
  • Day 4: Weott-Piercy: 37 miles
    • WS – Sam, Janelle, & Frankie
  • Day 5: Rest day in Piercy: 0 miles
  • Day 6: Piercy-Fort Bragg: 55 miles
    • CS – Jay’s guest house
  • Day 7: Fort Bragg-Elk: 24 miles
    • WS – Judy’s barn
A view from one of the many long climbs along the coast
  • Day 8: Elk-Gualala: 45 miles
    • HB – Gualala Point Campground, $5
  • Day 9: Gualala-Jenner: 37 miles
    • Caught a ride for the last 6 miles
    • Jenner Inn, $200
  • Day 10: Jenner-Valley Ford: 22 miles
    • Drove from Valley Ford-Sebastopol
    • HAS – Gabrielle (in Sebastopol)
  • Day 11: Rest day in Sebastopol: 0 miles
  • Day 12: Valley Ford-Sausalito: 52 miles
    • HAS – Dianne’s boat (Gabrielle’s friend)
  • Day 13: Sausalito-San Francisco: 15 miles
    • WS – Miguel
  • Day 14-16: Rest days in San Francisco: 33 miles
  • Day 17: Redwood City-San Jose : 45 miles
    • CalTrain from San Fran to Redwood City, $6
    • Friend – Monica
  • Day 18: Rest day in San Jose: 2 miles
Big Sur
  • Day 19: San Jose-Aptos: 42 miles
    • WS – Alberta & Richard (camping)
  • Day 20: Aptos-East Garrison: 36 miles
    • Friend – Phil’s uncle Mike
  • Day 21: East Garrison-Marina: 4 miles
    • HAS – Karen
  • Days 22-23: Rest days in Marina: 0 miles
  • Day 24: Marina-Big Sur: 42 miles
    • HB – Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, $5
Bike & elephant seals
  • Day 25: Big Sur-Big Sur: 29 miles
    • HB – Kirk Creek Campground, $5
  • Day 26: Big Sur-Cambria: 44 miles
    • WS – Aimee’s guest cottage
  • Day 27: Cambria-Los Osos: 27 miles
    • Friend – Tom & family
  • Day 28-29: Rest days in Los Osos: 0 miles
  • Day 30: Pismo-Guadalupe: 18 miles
    • Got a ride from Los Osos-Pismo
    • WS – Guadalupe Fire Station, camping
Bike lane on the beach in Santa Monica
  • Day 31: Guadalupe-El Capitán
    • HB – El Capitán State Beach, $10
  • Day 32: El Capitán-Ventura: 53 miles
    • WS – Dennis
  • Day 33: Will Rogers State Beach-El Segundo: 16 miles
    • Caught a ride from Ventura-Will Rogers
    • WS – Hiromi & Kirby
  • Day 34: El Segundo-Long Beach: 22 miles
    • WS – Ken & Kenny’s backyard (camping)
The view from Silver Strand heading to the CA border
  • Day 35: Long Beach-San Clemente: 48 miles
    • WS – James & Kris
  • Day 36: San Clemente-Carlsbad: 32 miles
    • WS – Gregg & Sang’s terrace (camping)
  • Day 37: Carlsbad-Coronado: 46 miles
    • WS – Sue & Craig
  • Day 38: Coronado-South Park (San Diego): 32 miles
    • WS – Chris, Alise, & Eleanor
  • Days 39-40: Exploring San Diego
  • Days 41-45: Return to El Segundo
  • Day 46: Flight from LA to NY

The view after conquering the Leggett hill

Totals

  • Miles: 1,068
  • HB Campsites: 5
  • WS Hosts: 16
  • Other Hosts: 6
  • Inns: 1
  • Nights camping: 11
  • Flat Tires: ZERO! (Schwalbe Marathon tires ftw!)

Costs:

Camping in Humboldt Redwoods State Park
  • Food: $383.16 ($10.08/day)
  • Lodging: $230 (darn inn…but worth it)
  • Bike Repair: $112.83 (but Bike Friday covered it)
  • Transportation: $175.24
    • Flight credit – NY-Seattle
    • FlixBus – Seattle-Portland
    • Amtrak – Portland-Klamath Falls-Crescent City
    • Clipper Card – San Fran buses
    • CalTrain – San Francisco-Redwood City
Bike storage on the CalTrain
  • Ferry to Coronado Island
    • Trolley/bus in San Diego
    • Amtrak – San Diego-Los Angeles
    • Flight – LA-NYC
  • Additional Expenses: $180.50
    • Postcards
    • Lighthouses
    • Museums
    • Zoo
    • FedEx (to mail suitcase from Seattle-LA)

FAQs

Don’t you get lonely traveling solo?


Not really. One of the great things about traveling solo is that I can say yes to whatever I want, whenever I want. Sometimes I ride with other cyclists for a bit, like I did with Miguel, John, Ken, and the other Miguel. Sometimes I decide at the last minute to stay an extra day somewhere, like I did in San Francisco. Through Warmshowers I meet people regularly and can decide how much time I want to spend with them. If I’d done this route a little later in the season I probably would have also met more cyclists at campgrounds, but early in the trip I had the HB sites all to myself. If anything, sometimes I need a break from too much social interaction!

Did you ever feel scared? Were there sketchy situations?


I only had one sketchy situation, when the guy at Refugio State Beach told me I was going to have an interesting night and asked me about meds. I didn’t feel scared, just that I needed to act. I called the park rangers and was able to move to another campground.

I do feel that as a woman, I am more likely to encounter sketchy situations than if I presented as male. However, the same can be said even if I stayed home and never traveled. As long as I make smart decisions I can avoid putting myself at unnecessary risk, same as anywhere. A woman can absolutely travel solo and have an amazing trip, especially with so many amazing people reading to offer accommodation through groups like Warmshowers and Host A Sister. If any of you out there present as female and are concerned about how gender might affect your travels, I urge you to go for it.

What about sexism?


The cycling world is still very white and very male. You will most likely encounter more white men on the road than any other demographic, and sometimes they will mansplain things to you. Believe it or not, I do know how to adjust a derailleur cable. You’ll also get told how brave you are, and you might get called “sweetheart.” One man told me there are lots of ladies on the road, I’m just not noticing them because I don’t look for them like he does. I assure you sir, I am very aware of other women on the road, and I celebrate each time I see one. We belong out here too, and I don’t want to hear gross comments about how you look for them.

With that said, there are many awesome guys out there who are genuinely cool and supportive in the right ways. I met a lot of them. To each of you, thank you for being decent humans. You rock.

Did you encounter wildlife?

Yes! In northern CA I came face to face with a herd of elk. Luckily they were distracted and didn’t bother me. I saw tons of birds: Mainly ravens and vultures up north, then condors, cormorants, pelicans, and seagulls further south. Also spotted some wild turkeys in multiple areas.

SoCal also had lots of seals, sea lions, sea otters, and of course the elephant seals near Cambria. I almost stepped on a rattlesnake in Los Osos, saw a small shark when kayaking, and smelled/heard a skunk outside my tent at El Capitán. Raccoons got into my tent at Kirk Creek (but didn’t take anything), and pickup trucks zoomed by with dogs loose in the back of the truck barking their heads off at me multiple times in rural CA. And the Best WS Pet award goes to Yuki, the San Fran cat with two different eye colors.

What was your favorite part?


Impossible to answer, but I’ll try:

  • The right mood! At the start, Rachel had the best reaction about my bike. I’m glad she was my first host; her enthusiasm, her help with assembly, and her stories and maps of solo travel set the mood for this trip. I’ve thought of her reaction often; I don’t know if I could have had a better first host to start this journey.
  • Avenue of the Giants: Cycling and camping among the redwoods was incredible, and the Eel River scenery was so very gorgeous!
  • My tent: I really like my tent, and every time I set it up I felt a sense of pride, and happiness that I’d get to camp in it. I don’t often get to camp, but on this trip I slept in my tent eleven times!
  • Farmland: The farmland near Ferndale was wonderful; those hills were gnarly but cycling past cows and green pastures made me so happy.
  • The Leggett Hill: There is something special about conquering the Leggett hill and coming around the bend as the coast suddenly reveals itself. Sam, my host in Piercy, prepared me well for that day, telling me it was going to be one of the best days of the entire trip. It was certainly one of the hardest – my pannier broke on the hill – but he was absolutely right.
  • San Francisco: I had way more fun in SF than I anticipated, largely in part to Miguel and our adventures, especially the Midnight Mystery Ride.
  • Marina: I loved hanging with Karen in Marina and participating in the community garden project. It was also a joy to find Karen and her friend cheering for me on the side of the road after I left. That was a wonderful surprise!
  • Beach biking: I really enjoyed the bike paths in southern CA, especially around Santa Monica and Venice Beach.
  • Warmshowers history: It was cool to stay with Ken, a former WS board member, and get the inside scoop on Warmshowers.
  • Perspectives and stories: Since many hosts are cyclists, it was awesome to hear about their adventures, why they host, why they cycle, etc. Special shoutout to James; it was cool talking with him about the how and why of it all.
  • Coronado: Coronado would have been great even as a day trip – especially biking down Silver Strand Beach to the border – but it was all the more special staying with Sue and Craig. I am glad we got to play cribbage, and I’m looking forward to reuniting when they are in NY next month.
  • Chris and Alisa: I don’t think I could have had better hosts to wrap up my journey in San Diego. Chris and Alisa made me feel at home and provided a chill, welcoming environment for me to rest and celebrate my success. Every so often in life I meet people who I immediately vibe with, and it was great to find two of them right at the end.
  • La Jolla & Amy: Amy is the woman I mentioned in my last post whose jaw dropped when I told her how far I’d cycled. It was cool to meet her directly after my journey and tell her specific details about my trip. She asked thoughtful questions and made me feel so proud of what I’ve accomplished.
  • El Segundo: Hiromi and Kirby’s place in El Segundo was an unexpected haven. The first time I stayed, it was because I was mentally a little frazzled, physically worn out, and it was 100 degrees out. I met Lente and Marnik and almost stayed another night because I enjoyed hanging out with them. Little did I know I’d return ten days later when I was in a pickle figuring out where to go, and would stay for five more nights. Hiromi and Kirby are such generous people, and I am so glad I got to hang out with Lente and Marnik again; I was hoping to make genuine friends on this trip, and I did. It was a joy to watch them finally cycle off on their bikes before I left for my flight. Extra bonus: I think I’ve doubled what I can say in Flemish, so I’ll be ready when I visit them in Belgium! 🙂

Were there bad parts?


No trip is perfect , but I wouldn’t call anything “bad.” Here were some lower points:

  • Saddle sores: I hate these. Whenever I bike too much it gets very uncomfortable and I stop having as much fun. I’ve done a bike fitting, a sit bone measurement, bought a good saddle, wear bike shorts without underwear, use Chamois Butt’r, etc.. and I still get these. Maybe one day I’ll figure out how to not get sores, but for now it’s something that sometimes makes trips uncomfortable.
  • Lady stuff: This trip was 38 days and started with my little friend, meaning I got to have lovely cramps twice on the journey. Not too bad though, when I know what to expect. Another lady problem: The PCH is lovely, but there is a distinct lack of trees, bathrooms, or other places to relieve oneself away from the public eye. Some days I think I didn’t drink enough water just because I didn’t want to squat on the side of the road to pee! x-D
  • Headwinds: I had one day where hills + the headwinds + no wifi to post a lesson for my students + not knowing where I was staying for the night + incoming rain = A Lot To Handle. Not my favorite.
  • Sunshine: I love the sun, but I did not love it when cycling on a shoulder with no shade for 67 miles. That’s the day I ran out of water with 30 miles left, and the day I encountered the creepy guy at the campground. There were good parts of that day, but it was my least favorite.
  • Racism, homophobia, transphobia, sexism, etc. It was always a bummer when someone would say something ignorant and/or inappropriate. Each time, I’d decide how much of the comment to address, and how deep to go into a conversation with a person I hardly know, often whose house I was staying in. This was not super common, but a bummer when it did happen.
  • Never finding a volunteer opportunity. I purposely carried hiking boots and hiking pants in hopes of spending a few days or a week doing trail maintenance or some other outdoor volunteer work, to no avail. Despite contacting every state and county park on my route (literally every one), the best I found was the gardening project in Marina. So my boots were mostly just extra weight on this trip.

All things considered, the good far outweighed the not-so-good and I enjoyed this trip. As with all my adventures, I acknowledge what a gift it is to do a trip like this; to have the $$ to buy a bike, to feel safe biking in neighborhoods where I might not be as welcome with a different skin color, to have a body capable of the physical strain, no strict dietary needs to worry about, etc. That’s not to be taken for granted.

Do you have another trip planned?

Yes actually! This summer I will hopefully go to Norway to cycle the Lofoten Islands with my friend Dries. He is Belgian, so I will have more opportunities to practice Flemish. x-D


The Gear

People often ask me about what I’m carrying so here is a list:

Front left pannier: Food

  • Some food items remained constant: Protein powder, peanut butter power, nuts, dried fruit, bananas, Harvest Snaps, electrolytes (Gatorade powder, Nuun tablets, etc.), silverware, tea, hot water thermos
  • Items I resupplied semi-regularly: Spinach leaves, apples, oranges, sugar snap peas, green beans, avocados, protein bars, granola bars, chickpea puffs, dark chocolate
  • Sometimes when I went to a store I’d buy a can or two of soup and immediately eat it outside the store. Canned soup is a bit heavy to carry in a pannier, but it’s a cheap and nutritious lunch!

Front right pannier: Toiletries & miscellaneous items

  • Clothes, toothbrush, toothpaste, shampoo, soap, etc.
  • Also my bike pump, important!

Back left pannier: Camp stuff

Me posing on a rock in Big Sur
  • Enlightened Equipment Enigma synthetic sleeping quilt, 20 degree F
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Thermarest NeoAir sleeping pad
  • Travel towel
  • Tent footprint
  • Luci solar-powered lantern
  • Rain jacket
  • Warm jacket
  • Thermal cycling pants
  • Beanie
  • Selfie stick
Rear panniers with bungee cords after one broke
  • Chamois Butt’r
  • Sunscreen

Back right pannier: Clothes/electronics

Mostly clothes, laptop, hiking boots (would have left those home, in retrospect), a book, and miscellaneous items.

Seatpost bag: Bike tools

Multi-tool, patch kit, bike lights, etc.

Handlebar: Tent!

Camping in Loleta, CA in a WS host’s yard

I have the 2021 Nemo Dragonfly 2P Bikepacking tent. I got it in the used gear section of REI and I love it 🙂

Other stuff:

  • 2 water bottle cages (and bottles)
  • Front light & back light
  • Handlebar mirror
  • Reflectors on the bike


The Bike

Posing w/ the boat in Sausalito

I did this trip on a New World Tourist (NWT) folding bike made by the Oregon-based company Green Gear Cycling, Inc. (Bike Friday). The NWT is designed for long-distance touring; the wheels are 20 in./50.8 cm. but it feels more or less like pedaling a regular-sized bike. I had control going downhill, and the compact size prevented me from getting blown around by wind too much. I have 18 gears and the power to climb hills, especially after realizing how important weight distribution is on a small bike. When I moved my tent from a rear pannier to the handlebars, climbs were MUCH easier!

My bike, folded in the suitcase

One of the benefits of touring on a folding bike is, frankly, folding it. It fits in a regular-sized suitcase with my clothes, so no oversize baggage fees on planes. I took it on three buses, two trains, a truck, three cars, and a boat (where I slept in Sausalito). I wouldn’t have been able to do that with a full-size bike; the NWT expands where I can go and how I can approach bike touring. One day I commuted with WS host Emma for 60 miles to cut off a dicey part of the route; I would not have met Lente and Marnik in El Segundo if I hadn’t done that!


Final Thoughts

The Pacific Coast Highway was not on my radar for cycling. When Omicron broke out and my plans for a Euro trip seemed uncertain, I’m grateful that my friend Khin suggested this route. Though I still think US cycling infrastructure has a long way to go, there are awesome places to ride in this country. This route was nice and simple; I could follow the coast without needing a GPS, and it was easy to find cheap or free places to stay the entire way. It was also easy to find wifi, a necessity for my digital nomad lifestyle, and it was even fairly common to find WS hosts with pianos for Noah’s weekly lessons. I hardly planned at all for this adventure, and it turned out great! The hills took some getting used to, but my body adapted as I went, and my bike and I handled the challenge.

If you are thinking of road cycling in the US, the PCH is a good route. Starting in early March is a good choice – before the roads clog with spring break RVs – and I was lucky that there were no fires, earthquakes, mudslides, severe droughts, or cold fronts. Going north to south was great; I had tailwinds almost every day and was on the right side for the best coastal views. Some people do this south to north, but I don’t think I personally would have enjoyed having headwinds all the time while also adapting to hill climbing and getting used to my bike. Plus, the Leggett hill is steeper south to north. x-D

Sometimes people tell me “This must have been life-changing!” I disagree. Long-distance cycling shouldn’t have to be a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and statements like that make it seem like this is a one and done sort of adventure. I met so many people on this trip who make cycle touring part of their lifestyle, and I aim to do the same. The trip was awesome but it was not life-changing for me, just a confirmation that I can live a digital nomad lifestyle successfully. Thank you to everyone who made this trip so cool, and to those of you who have been following along at home. Before this the longest trip I’d ever done was a week, so if you’re thinking “I could never do something like that!” think again. If cycle touring is something you’re interested in, go for it! Learn to fix a flat, then get out there and learn the rest as you go. Take it one day at a time, take breaks when you need, use Warmshowers, pack light, and remember that it’s okay to walk up a hill. Feel free to reach out if you’d like to learn more about my specific trip or want to chat about anything else. You can also find me on Instagram @carolynventures.

Here’s to more adventures ahead!

Post-trip bike photo, Bird Park in San Diego

24 hours after completing my PCH adventure, I was sitting on a bench in La Jolla, CA admiring the view when a woman walked by. “Did you ride your bike here?”

I smiled. “Well…yeah I did.”

“How long was the ride?”

“A little over a thousand miles.”

Her jaw dropped in perfect movie scene fashion. Amy gave me a high five and asked many thoughtful questions about the experience. It was cool talking with someone genuinely interested in the details. Sometimes it feels like a secret thing I did. There I was walking around the bottom of CA like everyone else, but I got there by bicycle.

So…the mission is complete. I’m at the airport right now, so I’m going to write two final posts: This one is on what I’ve done since completing the ride, and then I’ll write one more with stats and FAQs. First up: Post-ride adventures!


3 Days In San Diego

I legitimately don’t think I could have had better end-of-ride hosts in San Diego than Chris, Alisa, and their daughter Eleanor. I knew I was in the right place when I got to their driveway and saw the “Little Free Library” outside their house; my kind of people! The day I arrived, after dinner Chris took me out for a neighborhood tour and celebratory ice cream. Awesome! He and Alisa made it very clear that I was welcome to chill in their home and/or go out and explore whenever/however I wanted, including when they weren’t around. They even gave me a house key and permission to borrow their car! It was such a gift to stay with this welcoming, generous family at the end of my trip.

Over the next three days I did a combination of exploring the area and relaxing at their house, including playing their electric piano. Here are the places I visited:

  • UCSD campus: Dr. Seuss is from La Jolla, CA, and the UCSD campus has a library with the largest collection of Dr. Seuss works in the world, plus amazing views of the area. It was an easy trolley ride from South Park, worth the trip.
  • Torrey Pines Gliderport: Such a cool place to watch paragliders training. It reminded me of the jellyfish exhibit at the Monterey Bay Aquarium; very mesmerizing!
  • La Jolla Coastal Walk: Sooo worth visiting! I saw tons of cormorants and pelicans roosting, plus dozens and dozens of sea lions and some seals relaxing on the shore. This is where I met Amy, the woman who was so interested in learning about my ride. She made my day 🙂
  • Legends Gallery: This (free) art gallery in La Jolla has an exhibit called “The Secret Art of Seuss.” It was interesting to see the darker, slightly more twisted artwork of Dr. Seuss.
  • San Diego Zoo: I wasn’t planning on going here, but a neighbor’s half price coupon changed my mind. Highlights were the polar bears and the aviaries. I’m not a huge fan of zoos, but it was cool to learn about the research they do, and to sit and watch the birds in a quiet spot.
  • Balboa Park: Designed in part by John Olmsted and Frederick Law Olmsted Jr. (sons of the designer of Central Park and Prospect Park in NYC), this park is gigantic. It’s almost too big. For reference, Central Park in NYC 848 acres, Prospect Park is 526, and Balboa is a whopping 1200 acres! I visited the Spanish Village and drank an overpriced lavender chai latte while soaking in the colors of this artistic corner of the park. Certainly felt fancy. Balboa Park was really nice, but I think I’d need an entire week to explore the whole place.
  • Bird Park: Once upon a time the area that is now Bird Park was sort of dumpy, but the space was transformed into a park. Great place to lie on the grass reading a book.
  • Thorn St. Brewery: I was surprised to learn that San Diego is known for its breweries. This one was a winner!
  • The Taco Stand: If you visit San Diego, it’s important to get tacos. I checked this off my list while reuniting with Jen, an old friend who I haven’t seen since high school. It was great to catch up, and the tacos were delicious!

Los Angeles…aka Return To El Segundo

A few hours before I was scheduled to catch the train to LA, I got a call from my friend Alethea, who I had arranged a few weeks prior to visit in the downtown LA area. She had a medical emergency and wasn’t able to host quite yet. Ok…what to do. Chris said I could stay an extra night, which I seriously considered. Then I had another idea. I pulled up WhatsApp and sent a message. “Are you still in El Segundo?”

Soon I got a reply: “Yes…it’s gonna be another weekend.”

Aha! Lente and Marnik were still waiting for their bicycles at Hiromi and Kirby’s place, ten days after we met. I texted Hiromi and Kirby, and they graciously said I could come back. I rode the 7 PM Pacific Surfliner train three hours to LA, then took a bus and a taxi another hour to El Segundo. Reunion time!

I had a lot of fun with Lente and Marnik. We helped Kirby destroy furniture (that’s a whole story, involving a U-Haul, a friend of Hiromi, and a driveway full of furniture that Salvation Army would not take), listened to Flemish and Dutch music, had some Flemish language lessons (I think I’ve doubled what I could say before this trip!), and took a Lyft to downtown LA to visit the Griffith Observatory and a movie theater. One day Alethea drove to El Segundo and we went to the beach and the Brisk Theatre Festival in Santa Monica (VIP seats!). I hung around many furniture fires with Lente, Marnik, Hiromi, and Kirby, and on the last two days we were joined by another cyclist, Dan from Australia. Dan and I went to the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, which was cool.

Despite the fun times, the uncertainty of the missing bikes weighed heavy on everyone’s minds. Each day, Lente and Marnik got frustrating updates: The bikes are not in Long Beach, the bikes are not at LAX, the bikes were seen on camera Thursday but not since then, we’ll have an update for you in an hour, the supervisors are in a meeting, we’ll call you back in three hours…on and on. Lente and Marnik began to consider what to do if the bikes were totally lost, a sad possibility. We even took a trip to REI to look at other bikes. But! I’m happy to report that on our last day together, while we are at REI, the bikes were located, more than two weeks late. We had a wonderful last night full of smiles and happy moods. Alethea came over and she and Dan played Kirby’s guitars while we all sat around the fire eating Costco pizza. Now Lente and Marnik are finally having their West Coast US cycling adventure. Hiromi, Kirby, Dan, and I all waved goodbye as they pedaled away, a happy ending for my trip and beginning of theirs.


And Now…?

I’m sitting in LAX waiting for my flight to NY. It feels weird to be leaving, but after the last time I took a flight and got (happily) stuck in CO, I won’t believe I’m actually leaving until I’m in the air halfway to NY. I’m excited to return to NY for softball, but otherwise I feel like I could keep traveling on my bike for a long time. In fact, I have another trip planned already! I learned a couple things on this journey, but I’ll write about those in my final entry, with stats from the trip and questions people ask. Stay tuned!

Follow my Instagram for more adventures: @carolynventures

  • Day 33: Will Rogers State Beach-El Segundo: 16 miles
    • Lodging: WS – Hiromi & Kirby’s house
  • Day 34: El Segundo-Long Beach: 22 miles
    • Lodging: WS – Ken & Kenny’s house
  • Day 35: Long Beach-San Clemente: 48 miles
    • Lodging: WS – James & Kris’ house
  • Day 36: San Clemente-Carlsbad: 32 miles
    • Lodging: WS – Gregg & Sang’s house
  • Day 37: Carlsbad-Coronado: 46 miles
    • Lodging: WS – Sue & Craig’s house
  • Day 38: Coronado-South Park: 32 miles
    • Lodging: WS – Chris, Elise, & Eleanor’s house

Total miles since last entry: ~196 miles
Trip total: ~1068 miles, average 28 miles/day (counting rest days)


Day 33: Will Rogers State Beach-El Segundo, 16 miles

Will Rogers State Beach? Weren’t you just in Ventura on Day 32?

Why yes, dear reader, your keen observation is correct. I spent the previous night in Ventura, CA, ~60 miles north of Will Rogers State Beach. I was running out of time for my trip, the next segment didn’t look exciting, and this day was supposed to be 100+ degrees, so I spoke to one of the other Warmshowers hosts in Ventura, Emma, who works in LA, and she was nice enough to give me a ride on her way to work, even detouring to drive the coast so I could see what I would’ve biked on. Verdict: I didn’t miss much.

The section starting at Will Rogers was amazing. A protected bike path that transitions into a paved path directly on the beach. I loved cycling through Santa Monica and Venice Beach in particular; it felt as if someone had drawn a line of pavement across the whole beach. Super fun!

I took my time on these 16 miles. I met a woman named Charnelle at Trader Joe’s and chatted about my trip; she was inspired! Then eventually I got to El Segundo and met my hosts, Hiromi and Kirby. They used to rent their place through AirBnB, but in February they decided to use it just for Warmshowers. I didn’t get to hang out with Hiromi or Kirby much, but…

The coolest thing about Hiromi and Kirby’s spot is the community they create. Two of the guests were Lente and Marnik from Belgium. They had quite the story: They’d been staying in a sketchy hostel in LA waiting for their bikes to arrive from Belgium. They’d been in the hostel a few days, and the woman running the hostel had changed the locks multiple times after having to kick people out. People there seemed to be on drugs, and a guy kept trying to get Marnik to fight him (Marnik ignored him). They’d contacted Hiromi that day in desperation, and probably two hours after I arrived, there they were! I had an awesome time with Lente and Marnik; I considered staying in El Segundo another day so we could hang out more. They have amazing personalities, we had great conversations, made meals together, and I got to practice Flemish! They were impressed I knew some Flemish, and we played the game of “How many words will Carolyn pick up in this sentence?” I’m glad I met these two and wish we’d had more time together; I legitimately hope to visit them in Belgium. Tot ziens, Lente en Marnik!

Day 34: El Segundo-Long Beach, 22 miles

It’s a good thing I had a short ride on day 34 because I left an hour and a half later than planned; I was having such a nice time chatting with Lente and Marnik. As I left I thought “Is this the right decision, to bike on this second 100 degree day when I could take a rest day here?” But I was looking forward to meeting my next host, Ken, a former board member of Warmshowers featured on the BikeLife podcast. So, Lente en Marnik walked out with me and I cycled off to Long Beach.

I was making good time to meet Ken at our agreed upon spot to bike to his place together until…I stopped in my tracks on the side of the road. My dad and his family used to live in CA, and he and his brothers all talk about the pizza place they frequented, Shakey’s. I think I’ve heard about Shakey’s more than anything else in California. They all thought Shakey’s no longer existed, so imagine my surprise when I saw Shakey’s right across the street! I had to stop and take photos x-D

I then continued on, met Ken, and biked home with him. He was kind enough to take photos of me on the way. I set up my tent, took a shower, and met his partner Kenny, their three dogs, and the two French cyclists staying that night, Benoît and Mathilde. We had a wonderful meal together, Ken shared stories of his trips and provided route suggestions, and we got to hear some of the gossip of Warmshowers 😀

In the morning we all ate cinnamon buns and coffee and got our photos taken with Ken’s signs before departing. Thank you Ken & Kenny for the awesome Warmshowers experience!

Day 35: Long Beach-San Clemente, 48 miles

Another nice, flat, scenic day on the road brought me to James’ place in San Clemente. This was definitely my favorite arrival of the trip: I pulled in, was greeted by James’ wife Kris, and rolled my bike into their backyard area while jazz music played on speakers all around the house. James offered a glass of cold water, the wifi, showed me the shower and where I’d sleep, and let me get settled. Awesome greeting! Later I caught a ride with him over to the store in this golf cart, and we had an amazing drive back home when the golf cart decided to only go in reverse. Kudos to James for successfully driving that cart backwards for the whole 5-minute trip home!

James’ place was great. I got to share my trip stories over dinner and hear about James’ adventures. He is very much a solo adventurer and had a great perspective about why he travels and why he hosts on Warmshowers. It was interesting to go from Ken, who has been super involved with Warmshowers and tries to create community even among nearby hosts, to James, who wants to offer a sanctuary of solitude for wayward travelers. Both of them specifically mentioned wanting to give back for everyone who has given them so much, but their approaches were so different. Awesome to have gotten both back to back, and I’m genuinely glad to have met both of them. James also wins the prize for best shower of the trip. It comes from the ceiling!

Day 36: San Clemente-Carlsbad, 32 miles

The next day I began to ride and almost immediately met a local cyclist who wanted to know my story. He wound up cycling with me for an hour, and then we met again at the rest stop. Thank you Miguel for the conversation AND for all those snack bars; very appreciated!

I have a competitive spirit, so I was not surprised that cycling with a buddy increased my speed, to the point that I reached Carlsbad an hour before I thought I would. Another local cyclist explained that Carlsbad is a town that travelers of decades past flocked to for water, much like Saratoga Springs in New York.

For the first time on my trip, I wish I’d continued south and stayed at San Elijo State Beach instead of using Warmshowers. I still had a lot of energy when I arrived, and these hosts could only offer a place to set up my tent on concrete outside, plus a hose serving as an outdoor shower. They were nice and we shared a meal together (when they learned I don’t eat meat, they offered leftover veggie enchiladas), but I do wish I’d just gone to San Elijo instead. Oh well!

Day 37: Carlsbad-Coronado, 46 miles

This was a hard day. I had headwinds part of the time and I think I “bonked,” the cycling term for when you don’t consume enough calories and lose energy. If I’d camped at San Elijo this would have been a 30 mile day, and I could have enjoyed the scenery and been able to catch an earlier ferry to Coronado Island, where I was staying that night. I had to rush a bit to catch the 4 PM ferry to make it to my next hosts, Sue and Craig, before trivia at their yacht club. Biking on Coronado Island was beautiful, and I wish I’d had more time to enjoy it!

Luckily I did make it to Sue and Craig’s gorgeous house in time to freshen up before riding in their boat to trivia night at the yacht club. Sue was calling the questions that night, so Craig and I joined team “Lost In Space.” The team wound up winning a bottle of wine! Then we took the boat back to the house and got to know each other over dinner and a special treat for dessert – Turkish delight! We also played three-way cribbage, another special treat!

Sue and Craig are wonderful hosts. They are both retired and are very active Warmshowers hosts and cyclists. They do a lot of their trips using a “leapfrog” technique where one of them drives the car and gear for half the day while the other cycles, then they switch at lunch. They did the entire Pacific Coast Highway that way as well as other iconic rides, such as Route 66. I was delighted when they mentioned that they’ll be in NYC next month and invited me to come hang out on their boat for the day. I hope this means there will be more three-way cribbage in my future next month!


Day 38: Coronado-South Park, 32 miles

The final day of my Pacific Coast Highway journey! I had breakfast AND second breakfast with Sue and Craig, then we took photos and parted ways. They’d showed me options for getting to the border, so I left their house well prepared for the final miles ahead.

Cycling to the border of Mexico is gorgeous. Most of the ride is along Silver Strand State Beach on a protected bike lane. When you get further south you have to decide which border area to aim for. I chose the state park side. I don’t regret my decision, but I was bummed to discover a flooded road prevented me from getting all the way to the wall. But! I got some great photos, and a woman told me about a shopping mall a few miles away that would allow me to get right up to the border.

Off I went to the shopping center. Sure enough, the mall’s parking lot is right up against the wall. And…there is also a Taco Bell right at the border. A Taco Bell! I had to pee, so I went in and bought a $2 bean burrito so I could use their bathroom. So yes, I ate Taco Bell at the Mexican border. How American of me…

I left the border feeling so triumphant. I did it, I really, truly cycled 1000+ miles down the entire coast of California! My next host Chris (in the heart of San Diego) bought me celebratory ice cream that evening as we got to know each other. My mission is accomplished!


So What’s Next?


As I write this, I’m still in San Diego, taking a few days to explore and rest. Then I’ll catch a train to LA to visit a friend for a few days before packing my bike and flying back to NY. I’ll write a couple more posts to wrap up this journey – one on my San Diego adventures, one probably to reflect on/summarize the trip. I have achieved my goal of cycling the California portion of the Pacific Coast Highway. Amazing!

Stay tuned for a trip summary. As for the actual cycling, that’s a wrap!

Want to know about my future adventures? Follow my Instagram @carolynventures

  • Day 24: Marina-Pfeiffer Big Sur, 42 miles
    • Lodging: Camping HB, $5
  • Day 25: Pfeiffer Big Sur-Kirk Creek, 29 miles
    • Lodging: Camping HB, $5
  • Day 26: Kirk Creek-Cambria, 44 miles
    • Lodging: WS – Aimee’s cottage
  • Days 27: Cambria-Los Osos: 27 miles
    • Lodging: Friend – Tom’s house
  • Days 28-29: Rest days in Los Osos
  • Day 30: Los Osos-Guadalupe: 18 miles (started from Pismo)
    • Lodging: WS – Guadalupe Fire Station
  • Day 31: Guadalupe-El Capitán: 67 miles
    • Lodging: Camping HB, $10
  • Day 32: El Capitan-Ventura: 53 miles
    • Lodging: WS – Dennis’ house

Total miles since last entry: ~280 miles
Trip total: ~872 miles, average 27 miles/day (counting rest days)

Day 24: Marina-Pfeiffer Big Sur, 42 miles

It was weird to wake up the next morning and say goodbye to Karen; felt like I could have stayed there longer! But I went on my way, wearing my rain jacket to stay dry in the morning fog. The route from Marina was gorgeous, a protected bike path the whole way. I rode along enjoying the smell of the eucalyptus trees on the path (yes, eucalyptus) when, an hour into the ride, I spotted two figures on the side of the road. It was Karen and her friend Diego! I was so happy to see them, my own cheering squad. Karen, if you’re reading this, that made my day. I smiled the entire rest of the ride 🙂 

With a smile on my face, I detoured into Monterey. Karen had shown me the good spots by car, but I wanted to experience a bit by bike. I watched the harbor seals, passed the Steinbeck murals, and lounged on a bench near Lover’s Point enjoying snacks and contacting friends and family one last time before I’d lose service in Big Sur. Then…off to the hills! 

Big Sur

People told me Big Sur would be the most challenging and dangerous part of my journey, but now that I’d gotten over the huge climbs of the weeks prior, it didn’t feel that way. Yes, it was a lot of climbing. Yes, the shoulder of the road was small in many areas. But it was a weekday, off-season, and the climbs didn’t seem more monstrous than ones I’d previously conquered, especially considering that I was now in better bike shape and didn’t have a broken pannier! 😀   

My favorite part of this first day of Big Sur was not the coast, but the inland section with wide roads and mountains on the side. It was here that I met a touring cyclist going the same direction as me for once! I saw that cyclist again at Pfeiffer Big Sur Campground and learned that his name was John. As we ate dinner I learned that he was cycling around CA and surrounding areas, going where he pleased now that he’d visited his daughters. This was his second time in Big Sur that week. After John five more cyclists arrived, making this by far the most I’d seen. Two were from Belgium; I heard them speaking French and immediately perked up. I was able to connect them to Miguel in San Fran, since they were heading north.

Day 25: Pfeiffer Big Sur-Kirk Creek, 29 miles

The Belgian couple, Etienne and Maud, recommended stopping at Julia Pfeiffer State Park the next day to see the waterfall, so I did. There, I met two other cyclists out for the day. One had a Bike Friday at home, so we traded BF stories and stats. Cool to talk about my folding bike to someone! We chatted a bit, then went our respective ways. 

This day of cycling was when the incredible vistas appeared. I feel lucky that, while I was chilling on a rock eating a snack, a construction worker said “Do you want your photo taken? You look too cool on that rock.” He took some badass photos (on my phone, not his, to be clear!) AND gave me water and Gatorade. Thank you kind construction worker!!! The cycling itself wasn’t so bad this day but I had awful cramps, which put a damper on the day (see selfie below). I went slow and took my time so I could stop and enjoy the views. Also…for any cyclists with female anatomy planning to do this route, beware of the lack of bathrooms AND lack of places to hide behind something to pee on this stretch of the coast!

Eventually I made it to Kirk Creek Campground, where I met a couple from MA who invited me to their site for beers around a fire. Awesome! It was exciting to finally get to have a campfire! 

When I returned to my campsite, my tent was unzipped! Nothing was missing, but there was a dirty pawprint, and my chapstick was out. Thank goodness for the lock boxes at these campsites; I probably would have had a bigger issue if not for those food storage containers. Darn raccoons! But nothing was missing and I slept comfortably while the waves crashed against the shoreline not far away. 

Day 26: Kirk Creek-Cambria, 44 miles

On my way out from Kirk Creek I was happily surprised when one of the campers from the RV section waved me over to give me water and a Cliff energy gel. Those things are so helpful! 

Lots more great scenery on this second day of Big Sur; I’ll let the photos do most of the talking. One tip: If you do this portion, definitely stop at Ragged Point. This was such a hip town, with Adirondack chairs overlooking an amazing viewpoint. As I walked to a chair, I was surprised to see the cyclists from Julia Pfeiffer who had been admiring my Bike Friday! They cheered as I came over and invited me to sit with them. Their names are Stefan and Preston and they were doing a week of day trips together, since one of them lives in Colorado and the other in New Mexico. They were fun to talk to and took a photo of me with the sick view, a rare occurrence when cycling solo. Thanks for cheering me on, you two! 

After Ragged Point, I continued on in great anticipation of the area I’ve been looking forward to for weeks, Elephant Seal Vista, at Hearst San Simeon State Park. HOW COOL to see all the elephant seals lounging on the sand! 

Elephant seal fun facts: 

  • The total number of seals at this colony, Point Piedras Blancas, is more than 15,000!
  • Females weigh up to 1600 lbs/725.5 kg, males 5000 lbs/2269 kg!  
  • Males have a chest shield. Why? Unsure. 
  • This season (late March) is when adult males begin sea migration, adult females do a combo of mothering their pups and molting, and juveniles do a combo of sea migration and molting (it’s sort of an in-between period). 
  • Elephant seals spend a lot of time flipping sand. They do it as a sort of sunscreen to prevent overheating, a response to stress, and just something to do while giving birth. 
  • When on the beach, seals do not eat. They conserve their energy for the months spent at sea feeding and swimming. 

After Point Piedras Blancas, I continued my ride to Cambria and met Aimee, my next Warmshowers host. Aimee and her sister Anne run an Air BnB next to a church. Anne in particular is really into tiny homes, so they converted the spaces into tiny, really awesome cottages. I didn’t get to meet Anne, but Aimee was also awesome. She is a cyclist and had some good tips for biking around the coast of LA in particular, and I enjoyed sharing meals with her, her nephew, and one of the Air BnB guests of the week. Cambria is a super cool town; make sure to ride on the Moonstone Beach path to get there. 

Days 27: Cambria-Los Osos: 27 miles
Days 28-29:

From Cambria, I continued south and met two more cyclists out for the day. They passed me again later and gave me a couple protein bars, since they were finishing up their adventure. We did a handoff mid-ride, not even stopping! I saw them again when I stopped in Cayucos and was able to properly thank them for the bars. They were riding 67 miles, since one of them was celebrating his 67th birthday. I hope I’m still cycling at 67 too! 

As I continued I once again ran into John, the cyclist I’d met in Pfeiffer Big Sur AND Kirk Creek campgrounds! Clearly we are getting into a more popular cycling season; I went from meeting no one to meeting people almost every day. We cycled for a bit into Morro Bay and then parted ways. It was interesting to cycle with someone else; I’ve been going this whole time. I took some badass selfies at Morro Rock, the core of an old volcano and a beacon for sailors for over 300 years, and then continued to Los Osos, where I saw my friend Tom for the first time in real life! I met Tom on Zoom during the weekly vibraphone hangs that started happening early in the pandemic.

Days 28-29: Rest Days in Los Osos

It was cool to actually meet Tom face to face, even though we’ve met hundreds of times on Zoom. We had a cool weekend attending jazz gigs, kayaking, hiking, and hanging out with his wild and wonderful family; they are quite a bunch and I enjoyed their company. I was grateful that Tom let me play his vibes AND teach Noah’s piano lesson from his music studio. This was an awesome rest weekend; thanks Tom and family for letting me come hang! 🙂 

Notably, I also got to try olallieberry pie from Linn’s, which is apparently a big deal on this coast. I see why; it was tasty! That was in Cambria, where we went to one of the jazz gigs. Since some of my fellow vibraphonists might be reading this, the Cambria gig was with Charlie Shoemake, so I got to meet him in real life too! 😀

Day 30: Los Osos-Guadalupe: 18 miles (started from Pismo)

The day I left, I accepted a ride from Tom to Pismo Beach. We’d spent the morning kayaking, so I was happy to cut my riding day in half, since I had half the time. The kayaking was worth it; we saw seals, many birds, and even a small shark!

Pismo is pretty hip; definitely worth a stop. I likewise recommend Pismo State Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove. You can not only see monarchs flying around, but also speak with a guide to learn about monarchs in CA and in Pismo. They keep a count of all the monarchs passing through, and numbers have been dropping significantly in recent decades. To learn more and help support their education programs, visit www.centralcoastparks.org

From Pismo I continued to Guadalupe and had the unique experience of camping in a fire station’s courtyard. The Guadalupe Fire Department opens their doors to cyclists. The firefighters are on the job so they don’t really talk to you much, but nonetheless it was cool to camp on their property. 

Day 31: Guadalupe-El Capitán: 67 miles

One rule of the fire department is that you vacate the property by 7 or 8 AM, so I purposely planned a long day of cycling, 65 miles to Refugio State Beach (a highly recommended campground; many cyclists mentioned it). This day was, to say the least, not exciting. It was hot hot hot, no shade, and most of the route was on the shoulder of a busy road. Perhaps the one memorable point was passing Vandenberg Space Force Base. My grandpa used to work there when it was just an air force base, so it was cool to see it in person. I laughed when I saw the space force signs…on Google Maps it is still just an air force base.

This day of cycling was so hard. I ran out of water halfway through, with no end in sight. I felt very warm and maybe burnt despite applying sunscreen every few hours, and there were no towns, stores, or public rest areas where I could stop and refuel or take a pit stop. There was also a harrowing section where I rode on the highway with hardly any shoulder for a few hundred feet. Eek!

Somehow I arrived at Refugio in really good time, around 3 PM. I payed my $10 hike/bike fee (not $5, gasp!) and continued to the campsite, where I discovered…a sketchy dude. “You’re going to have an interesting night,” he said as I set up my tent. When I asked why, he said “You’ll see.” I ignored him and continued to set up, battling intense winds since this site was literally right next to the ocean with no wind protection. Then…”Did you run out of meds?” “I don’t take meds.” “Meds could help.” Okay…creepy much? The dude didn’t have a tent or bike and eventually packed his lawn chair into his car and drove off. But…I stood there, not sure what to do. Was he camping nearby? Why would I have an interesting night? I’d hoped to take a shower at this campsite; now I felt I could not leave my belongings. I decided there was only one thing to do, contact the park service. I called their number and they sent a ranger to the site, and to my relief, he took my story seriously and took notes as I spoke. He asked if I wanted to move to another campground and recommended El Capitán, two miles down the road on a bike trail.

I am grateful to the CA park service for taking my report seriously and for being accommodating. It’s possible nothing would have happened, but as a solo female traveler I look for signs of sketchy situations and act when I have even a little doubt. I feel safe doing solo trips, but I also know to keep my eyes and ears open and take action in questionable situations. 

Two weary miles later, I pulled into El Capitan and saw to my relief that there was another cyclist at this hike/bike site, AND that the campground had a better view and more wind protection. Awesome all around! The other cyclist is Blu. He is in his 70s and spends months every year cycling the US. He has traveled all over the place. He listened to my story and told me to let him know right away if anyone bothered me. It was nice to have him in the campsite, and I slept a lot better there than I would have at Refugio. The exception was when I distinctly smelled a skunk passing by in the night…I didn’t move one bit as it investigated my area!

Day 32: El Capitán-Ventura: 53 miles

I woke up bright and early the next morning, well rested and ready for the ride ahead. I’d had enough of campsites for a bit and was ready to just use Warmshowers, so when I took a rest in downtown Santa Barbara I contacted every host near where I thought I’d end my day in hopes someone would be available. I got a few responses, so had some options. Hooray!

This was a hard day of cycling. I think I was a little dehydrated and mentally shaken from my creepy dude experience, so I felt drained and zombie-like as I was riding. At one point I saw some softball fields on the map and pulled over to take a break at one of my most happy places. Softball always makes me feel good, even just sitting on a bench at the field.

This bench did the trick, and not long after, the scenery changed to also help my mood. Protected bike lane along the ocean for miles and miles? I’ll take it!

Eventually I made it to Ventura and met my new host, Dennis. I thought I’d be staying with him and his wife Jayne, so I was surprised to learn that she was out of town for work. Dennis turned out to be cool; he was in the Peace Corps with his wife and has also done work with refugees, as have I. We had some cool conversations over a taco dinner and he pulled out the Adventure Cycling Association maps to show me some route options for the next sections I’d be hitting. He also gave me some avocados from the tree in their backyard to take with me on my journey. Thank you Dennis!

  • Day 17: San Francisco-San Jose: 45 miles
    • Lodging: Friend – Monica’s house
  • Day 18: San Jose rest day: 2 miles
  • Day 19: San Jose-Aptos: 42 miles
    • Lodging: Warmshowers – Camping in Alberta & Richard’s yard
  • Day 20: Aptos-East Garrison: 36 miles
    • Lodging: Friend – Phil’s uncle Mike’s house
  • Day 21: East Garrison-Marina: 4 miles
    • Lodging: Host A Sister – Karen’s house
  • Days 22-23: Rest days in Marina: 0 miles

Total miles since last entry: ~129 miles
Trip total: ~592 miles, average 26 miles/day (counting rest days)


Day 17: San Fran-San Jose 45 miles

After my awesome “rest” time in San Fran, I cut inland (off the PCH *gasp!*) to visit my friend in Monica in San Jose. Miguel (my San Fran host) recommended cutting miles and hills by taking the CalTrain to Redwood City and riding one of his favorite CA bike paths, the Bay Trail. This was awesome – thank you Miguel for such a great recommendation! 

The CalTrain was amazing. There are two full cars dedicated to bike storage, each of which can hold at least four dozen bikes! You don’t have to pay extra to bring a bike, you just tag it with your destination so the bikes can be stored in order. Brilliant! Plus, the train was only $6!

From Redwood City I connected to the Bay Trail and rode flat, paved, protected bike lanes through wetlands and baylands for miles and miles. What a gorgeous ride on a beautiful day! Since the ride was so nice I detoured to a gravel bike trail through some of the baylands, where I saw my first-ever jackrabbits and curious critters known as ground squirrels. Ground squirrels look and act different than the grey tree squirrels I’m used to in the northeast. Hard to explain, but they seem more rodent-like.

From the Bay Trail, I transitioned to the Guadalupe River Trail, another beautiful pathway. Monica had given me a heads up that this trail passes by homeless encampments. These were interesting; I guess because of the warm weather, west coast homelessness is different than what I see in NYC. I passed a group outside their shelters playing music and grilling food; very different than NYC! I also found Lupe the Columbian Mammoth, a sculpture created after Roger Castillo discovered the bone of a juvenile mammoth along the Guadalupe River in 2005.


Day 18: San Jose rest day, 2 miles

I was excited to meet Monica in San Jose. We’ve been playing Dungeons and Dragons online throughout the pandemic but have never met in real life! We had a fun 48 hours together, as I suspected we would. We ate delicious Mexican food, got delicious boba, walked around town, saw lots of cool murals, and Monica introduced me to her favorite CA pizza. It was pretty good, but not NY pizza 😉 

We also visited The Tech Interactive, a cool science center. They have a fun exhibit on our carbon footprint on the world, and the traveling “Bodies” exhibit happened to be in town. I also enjoyed eating fresh tangerines from the tree in Monica’s yard. Thanks Monica for a wonderful two days; I’m glad we got to meet and go on adventures in real life! 😀


Day 19: San Jose-Aptos, 42 miles

From Monica’s place, I took the Los Gatos Creek Trail to the coast. What a gorgeous path! On the advice of my next Warmshowers hosts, Alberta and Richard, I stopped at the Summit Store en route. The Summit Store is practically in the middle of nowhere, but it has a great selection of snacks. Most notably, it had an entire WALL of Harvest Snaps, the baked vegetable snacks I’ve been munching all down the coast. Even in the smallest overpriced stores in the middle of nowhere, Harvest Snaps always seem to be affordable and/or on sale, and they taste great! 

When I got to Aptos, I set up my tent outside Alberta and Richard’s house and enjoyed an amazing dinner of salad and FOUR kinds of homemade pizza thanks to Richard’s amazing cooking. Richard also fixed one of my panniers, which had lost a screw en route to San Jose. Thank you Richard! Alberta and Richard have been on Warmshowers for almost 25 years and have been touring on their tandem bike just as long. They had great stories about their travels and I enjoyed getting to meet them. They have an awesome house that Richard built himself!


Day 20: Aptos-East Garrison, 36 miles

I was delighted when Richard made homemade blueberry carrot muffins for breakfast. Along with Alberta’s awesome collection of tea, this was a great way to start the day. Thank you both! They were kind enough to let me stick around to teach Noah’s piano lesson and catch up on grading my students. Aways prioritizing students on this trip 🙂

When I finally did leave around noon, after so many hilly days I was glad to see how flat this section of the PCH was. I had a relaxing ride along farmland to East Garrison, where I stayed with my friend Phil’s uncle Mike. I met Phil at a board game meetup while he was partway through a cross-country bike trip. It was cool to stay with his uncle and chat over Thai food for dinner; thank you Phil for connecting us! 


Days 21-23: Rest Days in Marina, 0 miles

From Mike’s house, I rode just four miles to Karen, who I connected with through the FB group “Host A Sister.” Staying with Karen was awesome, and thanks to inclement weather, I stayed longer than anticipated. Karen is very active in the community, volunteering with the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s sea otter program, countless environmental projects, etc. I happily joined her for a community gardening event outside a local library. I always try to volunteer somewhere when I travel, but I’ve been having a hard time finding opportunities on this trip; everywhere I’ve contacted hasn’t had projects when I’m passing through. I was happy to transplant seedlings and do some weeding with community members in Marina. I met cool environmental advocates like Judith, Jerome, and even the town mayor, Bruce! 

The rest of my time in Marina and surrounding areas was awesome. Highlights included: 

  • Visiting the Monterey Bay Aquarium (for free – thank you Karen!). The jellyfish exhibit was my favorite
  • Getting a tour by car of the Monterey area, including areas sea otters like to frequent
  • Experiencing the scenic 17-mile drive of Monterey (really pretty!) 
  • Checking out Carmel and its Mission Basilica (the Spanish missions are all over CA, and Carmel has a nice one. Read about it here)
  • Backtracking to visit Santa Cruz! I missed Santa Cruz since I took the inland path to visit Monica in San Jose, but Karen drove me there and we had a nice time walking around 🙂 
  • Having a relaxing day at Karen’s place catching up on work, doing yoga, and doing an upper body workouts (I feel like I’ve neglected my upper body on this bike trip, so this was a welcome opportunity!) 
  • Delicious homemade smoothies every day! 😀 
  • Swimming at the local pool
  • Awesome conversations with Karen
  • Befriending Milo, Karen’s dog
  • Telling people about my bike trip; Karen’s friends were all interested to hear about my journey

Marina was not on my radar at all as a place to stop, but I’m grateful I got to meet Karen and hang out for a few days. Thank you for being such an awesome host Karen, and enjoy your trip to Portugal! 

San Francisco!

San Francisco is a magical place and I spent more time there than intended. My “rest days” were nothing of the sort! So…let’s log the miles:

  • Day 13: Arrival from Sausalito (logged in last entry)
  • Days 14-16: San Francisco “rest days”
    • Day 14: 25 miles (technically on day 15…but very early)
    • Day 15: 8 miles
    • Day 16: True rest day! With yoga 🙂
  • Day 17: Departure on CalTrain

Total miles since last entry: ~33 miles
Trip total: ~463 miles, average 29 miles/day (counting rest days)

My time in San Francisco was amazing. I had an incredible host – Miguel, who offered the perfect balance of hanging out and doing our own things. Here are the highlights:


Day 13: A few miles that I didn’t track

Golden Gate Park: I could have easily spent my entire weekend here. Miguel recommended it as a place to hang out on the day I arrived, and I see why! I had a lovely time watching ducks in one of the many ponds, taking photos of my bike, attending a free concert, hunting for windmills, and catching the sunset at Ocean Beach. GGP feels like a mix of Central Park and Prospect Park. According to Wikipedia, GGP is the third-most visited city park in the US, behind Central Park and the Lincoln Memorial. It was designed by engineer William Hammond Hall. Interestingly, as stated on Wikipedia, “In 1865, Frederick Law Olmsted proposed a plan for a park using native species suited for San Francisco’s dry climate; however, the proposal was rejected in favor of a Central Park-style park needing extensive irrigation.” Olmsted designed Central Park, so it’s fascinating that his proposal for GGP was rejected.


Day 14:

I started this day by exploring on my own, then met up with Miguel for a delicious home-cooked meal of paella and charcuterie:

Ferry Building: This was a great indoor-outdoor farmer’s market. I was excited to find momo, a dumpling-like snack from Nepal that the Bhutanese kids at RISSE (a refugee center I used to work at) loved to eat. Yum!

The Exploratorium: This was such a cool, interactive science museum! I wish I hadn’t visited on a weekend – I love kids, but there were way, way too many on this day. Nonetheless, I enjoyed my visit. Highlights were the lifesize model of the Mars Perseverance Rover and the infrared scanner that confirmed once and for all that yes indeed, my fingers are very, very cold. The area focused on inventions was also pretty cool.

Lillie Hitchcock Coit: SF has lots of signs around the city to read to learn about its history. I enjoyed learning about Ms. Coit, a “renegade Southern belle” who became a certified member of SF’s fire department at age 20 in the mid-1800s. According to the sign, “she smoked cigars, drank bourbon, and drove teams of fire horses.” Badass. I’ll think of her when I see Coit Tower at the top of Telegraph Hill.

Fisherman’s Wharf: I visited this place twice. The first time, it was Saturday afternoon and felt way too touristy and icky. The second was Tuesday morning and it was gorgeous and peaceful. Only visit on weekdays if you can!


Day 15:

Midnight Mystery Ride: This was an unexpected delight recommended by Alexei, another Warmshowers host. Once a month, cyclists in SF gather in a location disclosed at noon the day of the ride. The ride organizer leads everyone on an adventure to areas of SF you might not otherwise think to visit. There are stops in public park areas for drinks and snacks. Miguel joined for this adventure too, and what an adventure it was! We met so many cool cyclists and visited SO MUCH of San Francisco. It was magical.

Post-Mystery Ride: After the ride, some us hung out for more adventures. There was a stop at Crispy Crunchy Chicken – a SF favorite inside gas stations -, Dolores Park – where you can see the golden fire hydrant that survived the famous SF fire -, an amazing alley in the Mission district filled with murals, and then finally…an ambitious adventure cycling up to Twin Peaks!

Twin Peaks: The roads leading up to Twin Peaks are made of concrete rather than asphalt because of how steep the gradient is. At one point I felt like my front bike wheel was about to come off the ground! After a lot of hard work, we all made it to the top and were rewarded with an incredible 5 AM view of the entire city. This was so amazing, and very much worth the climb on my “rest day.”

Grandview: One of the riders on the mystery ride, Phil, had a pannier repair kit and could fix my bag. Hooray! After visiting a farmer’s market, Miguel and I rode to Phil’s place and learned quite a bit about bike maintenance while Phil checked my bike to see if anything needed tweaking and then…fixed my pannier! Then he lead us on a ride to Grandview, his favorite place to watch the sunset. Yet another steep climb – including flights of stairs carrying our bikes – and we were at the top. We enjoyed an amazing sunset while a saxophonist serenaded the city. So cool, and once again worth the work on my rest day.


Day 17 & Other Highlights

Food: I haven’t focused much on “foodie” life on this bike tour but that changed in San Francisco, thanks in part to Miguel. I had Vietnamese, Burmese, Thai, Nepalese, and Chinese food, as well as Miguel’s delicious cooking and a few sweet treats. Yum!

Crissy Field: On the day I left, I joined Miguel for his 9-mile commute to work, which happened to also be the same direction as the CalTrain I’d be catching to Redwood City. A lot of the ride was on the bike path along Crissy Field. The path was beautiful, the sunrise was great, and you get a cool view of the Golden Gate Bridge. Awesome way to end my visit to SF.

CalTrain: I have to include this as a highlight because this train was SO CHEAP ($6!) and has three cars devoted just to bicycle storage. San Francisco clearly has their bicycle game figured out. Well done CalTrain!

Miguel! I feel lucky to have had Miguel as my host; he had amazing advice about the Pacific Coast Highway and the perfect attitude for my weekend. We even did yoga together in the park! I can genuinely say I made a new friend on my SF stop, met lots of amazing people, and hope to return. I think SF would have been cool regardless, but it was definitely extra great with such an awesome host.

Wow, it is hard to keep up on this blog! I’m currently in San Francisco, but I’ll write about that as a separate entry.

Here’s where I’ve been over the past week:

  • Day 6: Piercy-Fort Bragg: 55 miles
    • Lodging: Couchsurfing – Jay’s guest house
  • Day 7: Fort Bragg-Elk: 24 miles
    • Lodging: Warmshowers – Barn on Judy’s property
  • Day 8: Elk-Gualala Point Campground: 45 miles
    • Lodging: Hike or bike campground, $5
  • Day 9: Gualala Point Campground-Jenner Inn: 37 miles
    • Lodging: Room at an inn, $200 (eek!)
  • Day 10: Jenner Inn-Valley Ford: 22 miles
    • Lodging: Host A Sister – Spare room at Gabrielle’s house
  • Day 11: Rest day in Sebastopol: 0 miles
    • Lodging: Host A Sister – Spare room at Gabrielle’s house
  • Day 12: Valley Ford-Sausalito: 52 miles
    • Lodging: Friend of friend – Gabrielle’s friend Dianne’s boat!!! 😮
  • Day 13: Sausalito-San Francisco: 15 miles
    • Lodging: Warmshowers – Room in Miguel’s house

Total miles since last entry: ~250 miles
Trip total: ~430 miles, average 33 miles/day (or 39/day, not counting rest days)


Day 6: Piercy-Fort Bragg, 55 miles

I started this day by giving a piano lesson to my student Noah on Zoom, made breakfast with the help of Sam and Janelle’s 3-y/o Frank, then went on my way (Frank told me “Be careful of the cars!” Wise words from a toddler). The hill from Sam’s house is a doozy – I had my hands on my brakes almost the whole way down!

This ride was intense. There is an enormous hill around Leggett that really got me. Plus, on the way up, one of my panniers snapped! I rigged it with bungee cords, but oh boy, I hope it makes it to San Diego.

Sam had told me he was excited for this part of my ride, and I understand why. The climbs were intense, but this is the part of the ride when you transition from Highway 101 to Highway 1. There comes a point when you turn a corner and suddenly BOOM, the coast appears! It caught me by surprise a bit, and it was definitely worth the work on the climb. I enjoyed a nice lunch along the coastline before continuing on to Fort Bragg, where I stayed in the guesthouse of Jay, a woman who I found on Couchsurfing. I was quite exhausted by that point, so I’m sort of glad she has a separate guest house, I’m not sure I would have been up for much socializing in my state!


Day 7: Fort Bragg-Elk, 24 miles

This was a shorter ride because I had an important stop: The gray whale festival at Point Cabrillo Light Station Historic State Park. I arrived in time for a morning birdwatching tour. We saw twelve different kinds of birds, plus gray whales spouting! Didn’t see any whales surface, but it was cool to see their spouts and know they were there. I also explored the lighthouse itself and the museum. The staff I met were friendly and the scenery was amazing; I enjoyed my time very much!

Next, I stopped to eat my lunch at the headlands of Mendocino. But…it was windy and chilly thanks to incoming rain, so I didn’t stay long. Typically on the west coast wind blows north to south, so I have tailwinds when biking. However, whenever rain is coming, the winds move south to north instead. Not fun to ride with headwinds AND hills!

I continued to battle headwinds into Elk, where I summited one final, extremely long hill to get to my next host’s house. Judy is somewhat of a celebrity on Warmshowers; she is the only host in the area and has been on WS for a full decade; it’s likely she has hosted 1000 cyclists! Many cyclists I’ve met on this trip know of Judy, either because she gave them advice and/or hosted them.

Judy lives with her friend Nick, her brother Dave, their 94-y/o father Rusty, a dog, a cat, and an emu! Judy’s family used to breed emus and had 54 at one point! The family built their own house and made it solar-powered over forty years ago, long before solar panels were popular. Pretty impressive!

Judy is the postmaster and firefighter for Elk, an important member of her community. We all shared dinner and stories before I retired to the barn and set up my tent inside to avoid the incoming rain. Very grateful to have had shelter while it was raining!


Day 8: Elk-Gualala, 45 miles

This was the first day I didn’t have a concrete destination; I was going to ride until I was too tired, then find a place to camp. Judy recommended Gualala as a possible destination and that’s exactly where I ended up, at Gualala Point Campground’s $5 hike or bike area. The campground was gorgeous, and once again I had the HB area to myself, surrounded by RVs. This time rather than bear boxes there were raccoon boxes, so once again I was able to store my food worry-free. The HB food locker was clearly the coolest; lots of cyclists left their mark on the inside of the door.


Day 9: Gualala-Jenner, 37 miles

Day 8’s ride was intense, but it was nothing compared to Day 9. A storm was coming, so I faced headwinds and some of the largest hills of the trip. Plus, I really had no destination; there was a campground coming up but the forecast was 100% rain, and there were no Couchsurfing, Warmshowers, or Host A Sister hosts anywhere around. What to do?!

As I was contemplating this, I spotted a deer grazing on grass and behind it…the most unique building I’ve seen on this trip. It was the non-denominational Sea Ranch Chapel. I legitimately enjoyed sitting in the chapel reflecting on my trip and resting before continuing into the unknown.

Not much else to say about this day…I felt like a zombie, and I didn’t pass any places to stop for food, drink, or restrooms. When I finally did pass a general store, it was closed until April! Big shoutout to The Fort Ross store for being the only open store I passed; the vegetarian tamales I bought there were so tasty after so much despair! When I got to Fort Ross, I decided I needed to make a decision about where to stay for the night. I chose the Jenner Inn, called them up, and reserved a room.

From Fort Ross, I encountered enormous hills and did a ton of bike-walking. Then, with around six miles left, a pick-up truck pulled up beside me. “Are you doing okay?” the man in the driver’s seat asked. “Doing the best I can!” I responded. He asked if I’d like a break to get up the hill, and seeing his bike rack on the truck, I accepted. It turns out that Kevin is a fellow cyclist and has been in situations like mine, so he understood. He very nicely drove me to the Jenner Inn and waited to make sure I got settled in before continuing on. Thank you Kevin for the assistance!

That night it POURED rain; I could hear it all night long in my room. The Jenner Inn was not cheap, but I was able to post my lesson for my students, stay dry, recover from the most difficult riding day I’ve had on this entire trip, and enjoy amenities like a free breakfast sitting out on a beautiful porch overlooking the water. I am very grateful for that place, and would recommend it if you want to splurge on a place to stay in that area.


Day 10: Jenner-Valley Ford, 22 miles

After enjoying a leisurely breakfast with tea on the porch at the Jenner Inn, I checked in on my students and hit the road. This ride was MUCH better; no big hills and no headwinds! The misty morning made the cliff sides and farmland look magical. I had a short ride on this day; just 22 miles to Valley Ford to meet Gabrielle, a host I connected with through a Facebook group for female-identifying travelers called Host A Sister. Since the ride was short, I took a detour to ride an off-road path in Bodega Bay called Bird Walk Coastal Access, part of the Sonoma County Regional Parks program. Great place!

Gabrielle very nicely picked me up and drove me to her home in Sebastopol, where I stayed for two nights.


Day 11: Rest day in Sebastopol, 0 miles

I had a wonderful time at Gabrielle’s house. We shared meals and stories, but she also left me plenty of time to get work done. Sometimes it’s a bit difficult to teach and travel, but I was able to catch up on my teaching tasks on the rest day. Thank you Gabrielle for letting me take this time in your lovely home.


Day 12: Valley Ford-Sausalito, 52 miles

Before I left, Gabrielle asked where I was staying that next night and I told her honestly that I did not know. She made a call and next thing I knew, I was set to spend the night on her friend Dianne’s boat in Sausalito!

The ride to Sausalito was great, especially after I crossed into Marin County. As Gabrielle explained, the laws around roadwork in Sonoma County – where she lives – are very limiting, and I would know immediately when I reached Marin when the road quality improved. She was right!

Midway through this day I met two local cyclists who invited me to their house for food as a rest stop. I wish I’d said yes, but my brain was set on getting to Sausalito. If I’d said yes I may have known to turn left onto Panorama Highway rather than continuing on Highway 1 to get to Sausalito. Instead, I encountered extremely steep, never-ending hills that could have been avoided. Ugh!!!

Regardless, I somehow arrived at Sausalito by 5 PM. I had dinner, located the boat, then treated myself to Lappert’s Ice Cream as I explored the downtown area, including “The Floating Taj Mahal” houseboat. Then I enjoyed a nice quiet evening reading on the boat. Sausalito is a cute town and I am glad I got to stay there!


Day 13: Sausalito-San Francisco, 15 miles

The next morning I gave Noah a piano lesson on Zoom from the boat. It’s becoming part of our lesson tradition for Noah to ask me where I am, which is fun! 🙂 Given the early lesson time, I was awake to watch the sunrise from the boat. Awesome!

After the lesson I packed up and happened to meet Dianne, who was coming to grab the kayak just as I was leaving, hence the cool boat photos 🙂 Next, I met my next Warmshowers host, Miguel, who had cycled from San Francisco to Sausalito that morning. We had breakfast and then he acted as my tour guide and photographer on the ride to San Francisco. Thanks to him I have some cool photos crossing the Golden Gate Bridge and outside the Legion of Honor building. As he said, you only get one first time crossing the bridge! I’m having a great time in San Francisco, but I’ll share more in a separate post. I’m here for three nights – Friday through Monday – so that I can explore a bunch before continuing south. Adventures await!

I’m writing from a beautiful home on 20 acres of land in Piercy, CA. It’s my first rest day, and I’m enjoying the solitude and sounds of nature around me. My Warmshowers host is Sam, a high school special education teacher with a love of gardening, so I’m currently sitting in one of his gardens writing this. There is an incredibly noisy squirrel in a tree nearby! 

Today is Day 5 of my bike adventure, a perfect time to summarize the trip so far: 

  • Day 1: Crescent City-Trinidad, CA: 61 miles
    • Lodging: Warmshowers – Spare bedroom at Carol’s house
  • Day 2: Trinidad-Loleta, CA: 44 miles
    • Lodging: Warmshowers – Camping in a garden at Angela and Jamie’s house
  • Day 3: Loleta-Burlington Campground: 38 miles
    • Lodging: Hiker/Biker Campground, $5
  • Day 4: Burlington Campground-Piercy, CA: 37 miles
    • Lodging: Spare room at Sam & Janelle’s house
  • Day 5: Rest day in Piercy: 0 miles

Total miles: ~180, average 45 miles/day


Day 1: Crescent City-Trinidad, 61 miles

My host Rachel made an amazing veggie omelette, we double-checked that my bike was in working order, then I hit the road! I’m glad Rachel and Dave were the ones to see me off; they were great hosts! 

Tip: If you bike the Pacific Coast Highway, there’s an enormous hill directly south of Crescent City. Rachel warned me, and I’m glad I mentally prepared for it. That was 15 miles/1.5 hours on a hill from hell. Glad I got that over with early!

CA is hilly, but nothing else that day was particularly grueling. My disc brake started rubbing at one point, but I fixed it. Then my chain started jumping and I didn’t have enough know-how to do more than adjust the derailleur cable on the road. So…I put up with a jumping cable for the last two hours of the ride.

The views that day were amazing! From coast, to redwoods, to farmland…everything was gorgeous.  Towards the end I saw lots of “Beware of elk” sign and then…a herd of elk! Luckily they did not charge.

Trinidad is sixty miles from Crescent City, quite the undertaking on day one, but I managed to pull into my host’s house just after the sun had set. Carol greeted me with an AMAZING plate of food; the best I’ve had so far! She was also fun to talk to; she lives a zero waste lifestyle, used to be a dancer, and did a Fulbright studying dance in Brazil. So cool! She recently bought an electric bike so she can keep cycling as she nears her 70s. As an added plus, she has a basket of information for cyclists, including some fun facts about Trinidad. My favorite:

  • Carol’s house is just about halfway between Canada and Mexico. The exact halfway point is 40.89N latitude, and her house is 41.06N. As she wrote in the information booklet: “Each degree of latitude is approximately 69 miles or 111 kilometers apart. We are approximately 12 miles or 19 kilometers from the precise halfway point.

Day 2: Trinidad-Loleta, 44 miles

I got a late start on this day; I needed to rest after that grueling hill on day one. Luckily I had only 40 miles to ride. My first stop was a bike shop in Arcata to get my chain fixed. Carol showed me an alternate route I could take to Arcata; instead of Highway 101 I traveled through 15 gorgeous miles along the Hammock Trail, so this was quite nice despite the jumping chain.

In Arcata I’m pretty sure I got played. The mechanic used his chain wear tool to check my chain and reported that it was worn out to the point of needing to be replaced. What?! This is a brand new bike, and I hadn’t even ridden 100 miles! He explained that the chain was poor quality and that it wasn’t surprising that a low-quality chain would wear out so quickly. I spent $112 at that shop for a new chain, $80 of labor cost, and replacing four screws that had come out of my crankset (for this I am glad I went to the bike shop; I hadn’t even noticed that I’d lost them!). I’m not sure I truly needed a new chain, but my bike is running a lot smoother now and at the time I was going through small-town CA, so I didn’t want to take a chance in case I couldn’t find a bike shop in the miles ahead. 

That night I stayed in the backyard of Angela and Jamie in Loleta, CA. Jamie is a musician, so we had some great conversations about music and life. I set up my tent in their yard and spent a wonderful night camped out. I am grateful that they let me hang out the following day to catch up on grading before setting out. 

Day 3: Loleta-Burlington Campground, 38 miles

The ride from Loleta to Burlington was amazing. It started out with miles and miles of beautiful farmland. I love riding through farmland and saying hello to all the cows. There was also a crazy steep descent in Ferndale, but the view beforehand was gorgeous. Eventually I hit the Avenue of the Giants, an incredible paved, mostly flat ride through the Humboldt Redwood State Park. I really enjoyed this ride, and the campground itself. Cyclists can stay at Burlington for just $5! I was the only tent there; everyone else had an RV! 

Day 4: Burlington Campground-Piercy, 37 miles

I had a short ride ahead, so I started with a loop trail hike across the street from the campground. I can’t get over the size of these redwoods…they are enormous! 

Then I began what turned out to be the most picturesque ride of the day. I can’t even describe it, so I’ll let the photos talk. Aside from the Avenue of the Giants, most of this was along the Eel River and Highway 101. I also visited the famous Shrine Tree and took the obligatory selfie inside the tree x-D

Early in the ride I was grateful to meet my next host, Sam, on his lunch break from the school he teaches at, so I was able to put my panniers in his truck and ride 27 happy miles pannier-free. So light! 

Day 5: Rest day in Piercy, 0 miles

Sam and his wife Janelle live on twenty acres in a beautiful wooden house in Piercy, CA. I decided to spend two nights here and take a rest day to catch up on work. This was such a lovely rest and I was grateful for it. 


What’s Next?

Tomorrow I’ve got a big ride; 60 miles to Caspar or 55 to Fort Bragg depending on what my legs are up for. I know that possibly the steepest hill of the entire PCH is coming up on this day, so we’ll see if I make it, or have to stop at a campground. My plan is to get to Point Cabrillo Light Station State Park for their gray whale festival on Saturday, so hopefully I’ll at least make it to Fort Bragg! Adventures ahead…

Greetings from Crescent City, CA!

What a journey…I started Friday morning in Bothell, WA, caught a bus from Seattle to Portland, caught a train to Klamath Falls, OR, and spent most of Saturday on a bus to Crescent City, CA. Tomorrow I will finally begin my cycling adventure. 


WA Reunion!

I’ve been on the west coast for two weeks so far, all of which was spent in Washington with my friends Kiley and Tyler. We met on an All Hands and Hearts hurricane response project in the Bahamas in 2020 (literally right now, two years ago) and became fast friends; it was great to be able to reconnect for the start of my west coast adventure. We began our reunion with a mini vacation to Leavenworth, a WA town designed to look like a Bavarian village. We had a great time – highlights included breaking into a cross country ski track at night (it was supposed to be open but we couldn’t find a way in), breaking into a hot tub, sharing many meals and drinks, walking around town, hiking, cross country skiing at Steven’s Pass, and visiting the nutcracker museum. On the drive back to Bothell we visited a candy shop along a beautiful river with an entire room dedicated to odd soda flavors (grass, snot, dragon spit, etc.), and Tyler and Kiley pointed out the many “bikini barista” coffee shacks that exist in Washington State as we passed them (yes that’s right – tiny drive-thru coffee places where you order your coffee from a barista in nothing but a bikini…or less…). 

Most of my time in WA consisted of a record cold spell, then rain, rain, and more rain. We made the most of it with a ferry ride to Vashon Island, a visit to the Ballard locks, strolling around Bothell, yoga classes, a day exploring Seattle, and skiing/snowboarding at The Summit at Snoqualmie. Snoqualmie is great for beginners; $50 for an all-day lift pass for green runs only. Other ski resorts should do this! We also shared lots of laughs, meals, and memories from the Bahamas. I had a great time reuniting with my friends and I hope we make this a tradition! 

Washington Fun Facts: 

  • Leavenworth was not always designed like a Bavarian village; in the 1960s town leaders decided to change the appearance to draw more visitors. They were either going to choose a wild west or Bavarian theme. They flipped a coin and became a Bavarian village!
  • The Leavenworth Nutcracker Museum opened in 1995 and contains over 7000 specimens, possibly one of the largest collection of nut-cracking devices in the world!
  • Cross-country skiing is way different than downhill skiing. If you think you know how to transition smoothly…get ready to be surprised when you find yourself flat on your back! x-D
  • Ballard has the largest Scandinavian population in the US, and largest and Norwegian Independence Day parade outside of Norway! This is due to a large wave of Scandinavian migration in the early 1900s. Ballard has more of a maritime feel than the rest of Seattle due to the locks, the salmon migration, etc. So, many of the Scandinavian immigrants who came west chose it as their new home.
  • The Ballard locks are really cool – definitely worth a visit if you come to WA. You can watch the lockworkers raise and lower the water level in the locks to allow boats to pass from the sound to the river (whose waters are at very different heights). The locks also serve as a passage for the three varieties of salmon that are present in that part of WA. 
  • There is a giant troll under the Aurora Bridge in the Fremont neighborhood of Seattle. It catches you surprise, with no warning that you’re about to get to it! The troll was created by a team of artists led by sculptor Steve Badanes in 1989 (Fremont is known as the “artsy” part of Seattle). The Fremont Arts Council held a contest that year in an effort to rehabilitate the area under the bridge, and this Billy Goat’s Gruff-inspired troll was the winner!
  • Likewise, don’t miss the gum wall…which has become more of a gum alley…near Pioneer Market in Seattle. It was cleaned up just a few years ago but already been remade!
  • The highlight of visiting Seattle is taking an underground tour. Seattle is a city that was built partially underground. You’ll get to actually go underground and learn about the history on the tour. 
  • UPS was born at Waterfall Garden Park in Seattle.
  • Roughly 75% of all hops grown in the US are produced in one small area in WA called the Yakima Valley.

Portland, OR

Friday morning I said goodbye to Kiley, then Tyler and I commuted to Seattle for work/catching the bus. I chose FlixBus, $20 for scenic views all the way to Portland, OR. I had a few hours to explore Portland, then continued on the Amtrak train to Klamath Falls, OR. The highlight was definitely Powell’s City of Books. Don’t miss it!

Observations from my three hours in Portland: 

  • Homelessness is wild in Portland. I’ve seen homeless villages/camps before, but in Portland it’s different. Tents are set up along the sidewalks, so you often need to walk in the road. There are tons of homeless people, and lots of garbage. 
  • Powell’s City of Books is incredible! Definitely visit if you can. It’s the largest new and used book store in the entire world, taking up a full city block. It has four floors and houses more than one million books. The categories and span of books is incredible, and they buy used books! I was able to sell two books I’d just finished on the train and buy a new one with my credits! 🙂 
  • There is a small place called Lan Su Chinese Garden. According to its website, “Lan Su was built by Chinese artisans from Suzhou and is one the most authentic Chinese gardens outside of China.” It’s tiny, but pretty.
  • The Amtrak south from Portland is cool. You might find weird people on the train (that’s a whole story in itself….), but the scenery is beautiful. If you need to get south and don’t have time to explore Oregon, taking the train is a great way to experience the beauty of Oregon. 

Here are some photos from Lan Su:

From Portland, the train ride to Klamath Falls was gorgeous. The seats were comfy and the views were amazing. Somehow I wound up in an eventful train car, where I overheard conversations about how cancer has been cured, the “Caucasian race” is from Mars, our souls come from different places in the universe, some wild conversations about COVID, and why homelessness is so bad in Portland and how to escape it. I got the feeling that multiple people in my train car were in fact getting away from life on the streets of Portland. My ride also consisted of an incident that resulted in someone being taken off the train on a stretcher, escorted by police, and I learned that incidents like this are not uncommon on this particular train line. I know Portland has mental health and substance abuse services, but observations in Portland and on the train made me think the city is not doing enough to support those in need. 


Klamath Falls, OR

At 10 PM my train arrived in Klamath Falls and I met Lorena and Dick, my first Warmshowers hosts on this trip. Lorena makes homemade mead, so we had a nice time drinking mead and sharing stories while meeting the rescued cats and dog that share their home. Lorena is the long-distance cyclist in the family, so we swapped cycling stories; she has been on some amazing self-supported solo trips! We also learned that we both have friends in Dunedin, NZ, and I learned about beekeeping. I had a lovely time with Lorena and Dick and genuinely wish I could have stayed longer. This morning I had tea and honey (from Lorena’s hives; thanks bees!) and we ended our time with breakfast and conversation. Whenever I return to Oregon, I will make sure to visit Lorena and Dick. Thank you both for being awesome 🙂 


California Coast Ahead!

I caught the bus at 10 AM this morning and rode it to Crescent City, a journey of 6.5 hours. The scenery was great, so despite the long distance I enjoyed the trip. Tonight I’m staying with Rachel and Dave, who I found on both Warmshowers and Couchsurfing, and tomorrow I will begin biking! Hooray! Rachel and Dave are both great. Rachel spends half of each year long-distance cycling, and Dave is a musician who is into making percussion instruments out of unexpected objects. We get along well! 🙂

Gorgeous scenery en route to Crescent City

I have a semi-concrete plan for my bike route now. Given the cold, rainy forecasts across WA and OR, I decided it was best to skip those places altogether and start at the top of California, in Crescent City. I will follow the coast south to San Diego, riding roughly 1000 miles total. Along the way I’ll stay with hosts through Warmshowers, Couchsurfing, Host A Sister (a FB group for female-identifying travelers), and camping. I’ve also reached out to every state, national, and county park I could find to inquire about volunteer opportunities, and I’ve set up a stop at Point Cabrillo Light Keeper Historic State Park. Point Cabrillo is having a gray whale festival throughout March and is apparently one of the best places to spot whales in CA. I’m looking forward to attending a festival day, then sticking around to do some volunteer work removing invasive plant species. Lots of exciting adventures ahead!